Mountain Ryokan — Nagano Prefecture

KOYO 紅葉

The leaves turn. The water holds its heat. The inn waits.

An inn of eleven rooms, three onsen, and one mountain.

The Rooms

Tatami, cedar, and a window that does the rest.

I

Momiji

Eight mats facing the maple slope. In late October the room turns red an hour before sunset, and no lamp is needed until dinner.

8 tatami — maple aspect — 2 guests

II

Kiri

The mist room. Mornings here begin inside a cloud; by the second cup of tea the valley reappears, ridge first, river last.

10 tatami — valley aspect — 3 guests

III

Tsuki

The corner room, with a private cypress tub on the engawa. The moon crosses both windows; guests report losing track of which night it is.

12 tatami — private tub — 2 guests

The Onsen

The spring decides the temperature. We only tend the stones.

3

Baths — rock, cedar, open-air

41°C

Source temperature, unheated

5–24

Dawn to midnight, daily

The water rises through the mountain on its own schedule and has done so longer than the inn has stood. Bathe before dinner, then again when the lanterns are the only light left on the slope.

This Season

The maples turn from the summit down, one week of red sliding toward the inn. Mid-November, it arrives at the gate.

Reservations

Eleven rooms. One seating for dinner. Write to us with your dates.

Request a stay Koyo Ryokan · Yamano-kawa, Nagano · est. 1923

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